Our pals at Kleinburg Barbershop know their hair products so well, they could style yours blindfolded. Just don’t ask them to do that.
Photo: Sean Pollock

Don’t look now, but this might be one of the most serviceable posts you’ll read here.

And, hey, if you have no hair, that’s awesome.

In fact, we published a post on why being bald is awesome. Check it out here.

Back to hair—It doesn’t matter whether a man’s hair’s curly, flat or fine; the right curation of cleansing, conditioning and styling products will bring out its best. Thing is, picking out the right products to match one’s hair type has stumped many a man since time immemorial. To a seasoned barber or stylist, grabbing what your hair needs is practically ingrained in their muscle memory—they’re not even giving it much thought. They learned from theory, hands-on experience and sheer volume. But you? Different story.

Sure, some brands will hold your hand and tell you what’s up right on the label, and that’s good. But a man shouldn’t count on training wheels forever.

Should you go with a pomade? Pomades are good, but what if you don’t like shine?

How about a clay, then? Or a spray that’ll last all day?

Didn’t know you could put clay in your hair?

What about conditioner, is it all that?

Or maybe all you need is some sea salt.

If that’s all alien to you, you’re in the right place, so keep reading (or bookmark this baby so you can refer to it the next time you groom).

And even if the aforesaid made sense—or even if you know which of the four categories to which your hair type pertains—this guide might hold a fact or two previously unknown to you, Seneca. Besides, using the right stuff for your hair’s as crucial a skill as matching suit to leather, or sneaker to fitted. You know?

Okay, let’s go.

An Important Note About Our Hair Products

All of our styling products are totally water soluble, meaning all you’d need to wash them out is water. If you’re a barber and you’re reading this, you’ll know the value of not having to constantly expose your hands to soaps that dry out skin. Just saying.

One more thing—whenever we recommend a specific shampooing frequency, we’re basing it on decades of barbering experience (our Founder, Dino, is a retired tonsorialist), not a PhD. If you’re unclear on how often to shampoo (or anything skincare, for that matter), talk to a pro, like a dermatologist.

1. Hair That’s Straight

If your hair falls into place fast, or if you can slick it back without it sticking back up, then you’ve got straight hair.

And if you do, indeed, have straight hair, you’ll know how easy it is to maintain. On the other hand, you may also know the dermatological bane that is seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic eczema), a fungus the manifests when your scalp makes too much sebum. We’ve talked about sebum plenty ‘round here, but a recap’s in order here: Sebum’s a substance comprised of a complex group of oils secreted by the sebaceous glands on your skin, and as such, it keeps man hides nice and naturally moisturized.

But those whose scalps pump too much of the stuff tend to get flakes, intense itchiness and, yes, hair loss (or thinning hair)—a direct result of sebum overproduction irritating and inflaming the scalp.

If this sounds like you, and you haven’t seen a dermatologist, come on, man.

Chances are they’ll treat it with either a medicated shampoo, or if it’s bad enough, a corticosteroid. And remember, over 80% of men will lose at least some of their hair, so don’t get down about it.

Thin

There’s a difference between thin hair and thinning hair, which we just mentioned.

Thin hair’s a cinch to wash and style—be sure to shampoo it three, max four times a week (remember, don’t wash your hair every day or you’ll dry it out), and condition it just as much—thin hair can break with little moisture. As for thinning hair, think caffeine, just not the kind you sip; While calling it a miracle would be a stretch, some studies prove the stimulant’s a boon for hair loss—like this 2018 randomized one, which showed that a caffeine-based topical liquid is almost as effective at stymieing androgenetic alopecia. There are all manner of caffeine-infused shampoos to peruse, and they’re worth a shot, if nothing else.

Thin hair can often look limp, lending itself to styling products that command volume and texture (temporarily, that is).

We make a beast of a thickening-meets-styling product called Structure Styling Paste, and when you work a quarter’s worth through your towel-dried hair (pat, don’t drag), what’s thinned will subtly thicken as a texturized look takes over in seconds. It’ll last all day, too.

Thick

Conversely, thick straight hair needs something tough, something that’ll give it a good hold.

You’ve got two options: 1) Our Hippie Killer Pomade’s perfect for thick hair as it’ll keep those big strands in check. It’ll add a tinge (not a dollop) of shine, too, and a lot of fellas love that; think the sleek sophistication of Don Draper’s lid. Just work a round through your hair post-shower, and do it while it’s lightly towered dried and damp, but not wet. 2) Two words—Matte Clay. Ours imparts a natural, “matte” finish for guys who like subtlety, though it won’t pack as heavy a hold as our pomade; This’ll give thick hair a manageable, medium hold. The key’s in rubbing a small amount in your palms until it looks like it’s vanished (it hasn’t), at which point it’s safe to run your hands through your locks and style it as you'd like.

2. Hair That’s Wavy

Wavy hair’s the envy of men who lack it, and how could it not be?

Zack Ledgerwood’s the head barber at Gray Whale in Ottawa, Ontario, and as you can tell from this shot of one of his clients, wavy hair can look just short as it normally does long.
Photo: Gray Whale, Ottawa

Wavy hair walks the line between wild and elegant, rendering its wearers with an elan that’s hard to replicate. The bastards. Wavy hair’s versatile, too, since it can be worn long, really short, or, our favourite, nape-length and layered. i.e. The “curtain” cut, which has returned from the ‘90s with a roaring vengeance, looks great on guys with wavier hair (though a similar look can be executed with a classic side part in lieu of a middle part).

But as with everything, wavy hair has a downside: As anyone with wavy locks can confirm, it has a mind of its own, and when it wants, it does what it wishes, unabated. That is, unless, you know how to wrangle those locks like a pro barber.

Fine Waves

Caring for wavy hair that’s fine’s a breeze, and if that’s you, you loved reading that.

Fine hair needs shampooing three, max four times a week, and if you use something with a little hydrolized wheat protein in it (like our Fortifying Shampoo)i, even better as it’ll keep what’s fine supple, yet strong from the root up.

Proper conditioning’s just as key come the colder months—think three to four times a week; That way it’ll stay smooth and moisturized; You’ll want to dodge breakage as much as you can—fine hair’s vulnerable to that sort of thing.

To style fine hair that’s short, we’d say go with our Structure Styling Paste; it’ll naturally thicken what’s fine, but no so much you’ll look like some other dude. Run a little through what’s first been towel dried, and you’re good to go.

Voluminous Waves

Like we said, lots of wavy hair can get out of control. But here’s a cool styling hack to ensure that doesn’t happen: When your lid’s towel-dried, give it a few spritzes of our classic Hair Grooming Spray, a light, easy way to get a natural hold (thank the sea salt we put in there). Now, run a little of our Matte Clay through those strands to lock in what you’ve created with the spray.

3. Hair That’s Curly

Curly hair’s got that cachet other textures lack, and like wavy hair, it just looks damn cool.

Meet our Hair Grooming Spray, hands down one of the most underrated products in our line. Not only is it good on its own if you want a lighter, more natural hold, it’s also the perfect precursor to a second styling agent, in that you can “lock in” what you mould with the spray by following up with a pomade, or clay—it all depends on what you're going for. In the world of grooming and barbering, we call this “cocktailing” and, yes, a man ought to experiment with bathroom cocktailing as his heart sees fit.

That said, there’s no doubt curls need serious attention. And by serious attention, we’re talking more than enough moisture. Why? It’s simple science, really; It takes sebum a lot longer to make its way through a spiralled strand than a straight one, often leaving what’s coiled to the mercy of drying elements like cold air and indoor heating.

Wash your curls with a mild, nourishing shampoo every seven days or so, and if that sounds nuts, don’t worry, you’ll be all right. In fact, regularly washing will almost certainly dry out what’s already a sensitive hair type, one that naturally dries out quick.

Loose Curls

Styling looser curls calls for another product “cocktail,” similar to the one we showed you for styling thick, wavy hair. 1. First, get a little of that Grooming Spray in your curls, three, four sprays max. Again, you want to set a solid, but malleable foundation that won’t gunk up those curls. 2. Rub the smallest amount of our Pomade — a dime’s worth, nothing more — into your palms; We don’t want shine so much as a decent hold. Wait ‘till it looks like it’s gone (notice a pattern yet?), then run those paws through your locks a few times. Nice, right?

Thick Curls

Thicker curls ironically demand less product, but you minimalists should love that.

And let’s face it—thick curls are stubborn, and there’s only so much product you can apply before you start doing damage. Lastly, but most importantly, something that combines hydration with styling efficacy hits that sweet spot for which your curls will thank you.

Ready for another cool hack? Once you’re out of the shower and your curls are half dry, grab our Beard Balm — yes, sir, our Beard Balm — get some onto your palms and fingers, rub ‘em, then gently run your hands through your hair (don’t rush it or they’ll get tangled).

4. Hair That’s Kinky, Coiled Or Afro

Questlove, drummer of Philadelphia’s legendary hip-hop outfit, the Roots, owns an afro so nice you’ve just got to look twice.
Photo: Joe Mabel \ Wiki Commons

Coiled hair’s the cousin of curly hair in that it’s anything but straight, and it’s a dominant trait among black men worldwide. If you know what Michael Jackson’s lid looked like before he did the whole pigmentation alteration thing, think of that.

Like curly hair, kinky hair dries up faster than other hair types, and it’s prone to breakage, so don’t skimp on the conditioner; Four to five times a week should suffice, unless your dermatologist thinks otherwise, of course. Just know that when you do condition, make as little contact with your roots as possible, or it’ll be buildup city up there.

Also, invest in a leave-in conditioner—few other products will keep curls as vibrant and as healthy, plus it makes frizz history (at least for a few days).

Contrary to frequent conditioning, coiled hair does not like frequent shampooing, but guess what’s awesome about our Fortifying Shampoo and Conditioner? They’re free of nasty sulphates, a notorious dryer of skin. Matter of fact, all of our stuff is sulphate and paraben-free.

While we’d recommend you wash every seven days or so, best to consult with your dermatologist if you’re unsure.

And whatever you do, do not try combing coiled or kinky hair with anything besides a wide-tooth comb, or you’ll look like you lasted a round in the chair and lived.

Styling Coily, Kinky Hair

Like we said with thick curls, kinky, coiled hair won’t budge much—but that’s a good thing. Truth be told, guys rock this kind of hair best when it looks like there’s hardly anything in it.

With that in mind, take the same route we showed you up in said curly hair section, the thick curls part—reach for that Beard Balm (or any good hair cream that’ll moisturize well), rub a round into your palms and fingers, then work it through your hair, once again ensuring you don’t touch your scalp a lot, lest buildup form on it.

Tip: Add the balm or cream while your hair’s on the wetter side of dry; the excess water will help you hair absorb the product.

That’s it, you’re done.

The Right Cleaning, Conditioning And Styling Products To Use For All Four Types of Hair