The Odd Truth About Aerosol Shave Cream
We don’t just make fancy shave cream because it feels nice.
Although, we do think it’s great, and people say it feels nice.
Our shave creams get made in small batches with good ingredients because of one word: skin. That, and the preservation of old-school grooming traditions. But you knew that part.
If you check out our story, our founder — Dino — launched Crown over a decade ago. Back then, the Internet wasn’t yet awash with men’s grooming products and guys cared a little less about their visages. Dino was a barber at the time, and a busy one of high repute. But he hated how his hide would react to the sulphates, surfactants and other chemicals that teem inside the products of the biggest shaving and grooming brands we know. Hence the existence of Crown and this very blog you’re reading.
Is this an attack on the big brands? Not at all; No one’s died from shave gel, and we doubt anyone will. The people behind aerosol shaving products sell convenience, not just a physical product. There’s a market for that kind of thing, and there always will be.
But that doesn’t diminish sensitive skin and the fact that a lot of guys have it. Not every man’s made for what lines the aisles of your local drug store, and no, there’s no shame in admitting your skin gets bumpier than pizza when you use those concoctions.
The fact is your average shave can’s rife with chemicals that care more about preserving themselves than your face, you handsome, but naive bastard. And if no one’s told you just what’s inside those things, then shit, we will.
Propylene Glycol’s Not That Bad, But…
Known as a “humectant,” propylene glycol’s designed to help keep moisture locked into your skin and hair and it’s used in a lot of shave products. It’s also got a dodgy rep for being too toxic, but most of the peer-reviewed evidence says it does nothing more than cause allergic reactions at worst. Good thing the human liver can metabolize it well and turn it into lactic acid. But if your liver’s not in top shape, talk to your doctor before taking any risks.
And for what it’s worth, we actually use a little PG in our Matte Clay. Like we said, it does a fine job retaining moisture in those hair shafts. No, it’s not in our shave cream.
Surfactants Are What Suck.
A surfactant might sound complicated but it’s not; it’s a chemical that makes all your favourite cleaning products foam up and strip grime from things. Most of all, surfactants do a good job nulling friction, and in effect, it creates that slippery effect when you’re cleaning surfaces. A lot of store brand shave creams have this stuff. Without it, you’d get zero “glide” with every stroke and wind up like a shark attack from the neck up.
A common yet notorious surfactant is sodium lauryl sulphate, one of the types we’re referring to when you read “sulphate and paraben-free” on our labels. You’ll find it listed in the ingredients of dish detergents, toothpastes, and, yes, aerosol shave cans. But according to research by Dr. Yousuf Mohammed — a dermatology researcher at the University of Queensland — constant contact with SLS can cause rashes, redness and other irritations for folks with sensitive skin. And if you’re prone to skin conditions, get in the habit of reading labels and steer clear of anything that’s got SLS.
A 2019 report published by Dr. Mohammed says, “People with a history of sensitive skin, hyperirritable skin and patients suffering from skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis (eczema), rosacea and psoriasis are best to avoid products containing SLS.”
If you’re wondering what makes our shave cream feel so damn smooth, it’s a healthy balance of glycerin, aloe juice, grape seed and olive extract. But read our labels anyway; if you’re allergic to something non-chemical, you’ll want to know. Plus, we don’t want to feel bad.
A Quick, But Important Note On Dioxane
The Toronto Star ran an interesting piece in 2012 about toxic chemicals in men’s grooming products. In it, they highlight a chemical called “dioxane,” a “trace contaminant” (that’s the FDA’s words) that’s been found in some of those aerosol shave creams. That means while dioxane isn’t intentionally used in these products, it’s been found in small amounts anyway. Here’s why that matters: A popular 2007 study that explored dioxane’s affect on us showed that it’s a probable carcinogen. Don’t fret, the current science says you’d have to absorb an inordinate amount of this shit for it to hurt you. But like the Star piece says, “continuous exposure and the long term effects are unknown.” Something to think about.
Stop The Pile Up At The Dump
What do you think happens with all those aerosol cans when they’re used up?
They make trash mountains at landfills that shouldn’t even exist in the first place. And the worst part is that aerosol cans are recyclable. They’re made of aluminum and steel, and as long as everything’s emptied out, they’re blue bin safe. But tell that to everyone who just tosses in the garbage like it’s nothing. By the way, almost four billion aerosol cans are produced in the U.S. alone every single year. There’s no chance that’s all getting reused.
What’s good is that last winter in the U.S., the Environmental Protection Agency simplified their disposal process when it comes to aerosol cans. They’ve essentially shifted aerosol cans from “hazardous waste” to “universal waste,” which one would think is worse if you consider their potential flammability. But the program’s promised to “streamline” the disposal process and, in doing so, get more Americans to recycle their aerosol cans.
Lastly, premium shave creams like ours don’t cost more because it’s fun to count cash. They cost more because people make them in smaller batches, and in more controlled environments with natural ingredients, the likes of which involved many painstaking hours of researching, sourcing and vetting.
Your face speaks before you do, so whether it’s moisturizer, shave cream or whatever else, don’t skirt on quality when when it comes to what you put on it.